What is the Khau Vai Love Market?
Deep in the mountains of Ha Giang, the Khau Vai Love Market is one of Vietnam’s most unique and culturally rich festivals. Taking place only once a year on the 26th day of the third lunar month (usually April or May), this market is not a place for trading goods, but rather a gathering where ethnic minority men and women reunite with past lovers or seek new romantic connections.
The origins of this love market are tied to an old legend. One story tells of a young couple from different ethnic groups who fell in love, but their families forbade their marriage due to social differences. Heartbroken, they fled to Khau Vai, a peaceful land where they could be together. However, their love was not accepted, and in some versions of the story, they were forced to separate forever. To honor their love, they made a pact to meet once a year on this day, and over time, others in similar situations followed this tradition.
To commemorate this tale, the local community established the Ong and Ba Temples (meaning “Sir and Madam”) in the market area, dedicated to the lovers. Today, the Khau Vai Love Market is a symbol of nostalgia, romance, and the deep-rooted traditions of Ha Giang’s ethnic groups. With the support of local authorities, it has also become an event to promote cultural identity and tourism in the region.
What can you expect when visiting?
On the night before the event and throughout the day, Khau Vai comes alive with music, dance, and a festive atmosphere. Men and women from the Hmong, Tay, Nung, Dao, and Giay ethnic groups travel from far and wide, dressed in their finest traditional clothing. The market is filled with vibrant embroidered skirts, silver jewelry, and colorful headscarves as locals search for familiar faces from their past.
One of the most intriguing aspects of this festival is that married men and women are allowed to reunite with former lovers without jealousy from their current spouses. The meeting is seen as a moment to reminisce about old love, share memories, and celebrate connections without disrupting their current family life.
Aside from rekindled romances, the market is also a place where new couples meet. Young men and women engage in playful interactions, singing folk songs, exchanging gifts, or joining in traditional dance. In addition to romance, the event includes cultural performances, folk games, horse races, and food stalls selling local specialties.
Though the love market has gained attention from visitors, it remains an authentic experience where the focus is on tradition rather than tourism. The atmosphere is a mix of nostalgia, joy, and cultural pride, making it a fascinating event to witness in Ha Giang.
When is the Khau Vai Love Market?
The Khau Vai Love Market is held once a year on the 27th day of the third lunar month. The lunar calendar follows the cycles of the moon, meaning its months do not align exactly with the Gregorian calendar, which is commonly used worldwide. Many Vietnamese festivals, including Tết (Vietnamese New Year), follow this lunar system. As a result, the exact date of the Khau Vai Love Market changes each year, but it always falls in April or May.
Upcoming dates
- 2026: May 13
- 2027: May 2
- 2028: April 21
- 2029: May 10
- 2030: April 30
- 2031: April 19
- 2032: May 7
Previous years
- 2025: April 24
- 2024: May 5
- 2023: May 16
- 2022: April 27
- 2021: May 8
- 2020: Saturday, April 18
How to get to Khau Vai Love Market
Location of Khau Vai Love Market
Khau Vai Love Market is located in Khau Vai Commune, part of Meo Vac District in Ha Giang Province, in the far north of Vietnam. While it is not directly along the Ha Giang Loop, it is not far from Meo Vac, making it a possible detour for those exploring the region. The market takes place in a remote mountainous area, requiring advance planning to reach. It is not possible to travel directly from Hanoi to Khau Vai in a single day, so you will need to first reach Ha Giang City before continuing to Khau Vai.
Getting to Ha Giang City
To visit Khau Vai, your first step is reaching Ha Giang City, the gateway to the province. The most common ways to travel from Hanoi to Ha Giang are:
- Overnight sleeper bus: The most popular and convenient option. Buses depart Hanoi in the evening and arrive in Ha Giang early the next morning. The journey takes 6 to 7 hours.
- Limousine van: A more comfortable daytime option with fewer passengers and better seats, but it requires arriving in Ha Giang a day before you plan to visit Khau Vai.
- Private car: The most expensive but also the most flexible way to travel. A private car can take you directly to Ha Giang from Hanoi, but you will still need additional transport to reach Khau Vai.
Getting to Khau Vai from Ha Giang
From Ha Giang City, Khau Vai is about 140 km away, but due to the winding mountain roads, it takes at least 6 hours to reach. While it is technically possible to go straight from Ha Giang City to Khau Vai, the best option is to visit as part of a scenic trip through Ha Giang, typically incorporating part or all of the Ha Giang Loop.
Best ways to travel from Ha Giang City to Khau Vai:
- Motorbike: A great way to experience the stunning landscapes at your own pace. However, the roads can be challenging, and it is not recommended unless you are an experienced motorbike rider.
- Easy Rider (motorbike with a driver): Ideal for those who want the experience of riding through Ha Giang but do not want to drive themselves. A local guide will handle the difficult roads while you enjoy the scenery.
- Car or jeep tour: The safest and most comfortable way to visit Khau Vai, especially for those who prefer a more relaxed journey. This option is also recommended if you are short on time and want to explore other highlights of Ha Giang along the way.
More things to do and see in Khau Vai
While most visitors come to Khau Vai for the Love Market, the area has much more to offer. Whether you visit on market day or any other time of the year, this remote commune provides an authentic off-the-beaten-track experience with some surprising natural and cultural highlights. Below are some of the best things to see and do in Khau Vai.
Khau Vai Canyon
The Nho Que River, which is famous for its dramatic gorge at Ma Pi Leng Pass, also runs through Khau Vai. Here, it forms a spectacular canyon with towering cliffs rising steeply on both sides of the river. It is possible to take a boat ride through the canyon, which offers a unique and less crowded alternative to the boat trips at Ma Pi Leng. The scenery here is just as breathtaking, making it one of the hidden gems of Ha Giang.
Taking the bamboo ferry
A bamboo ferry operates in Khau Vai, allowing visitors to cross the river with their motorbikes (but not cars). While there is also a bridge nearby, taking the ferry is a much more fun and scenic experience. On the other side of the river, you enter Cao Bang Province, a region known for its natural beauty but rarely visited in this remote western area. If you’re looking for a unique way to extend your journey beyond Ha Giang, this could be an adventurous detour.
Khau Vai Stone Maze
Khau Vai is home to a small but intriguing stone maze, formed by large jagged rock formations that stick out of the ground, creating narrow winding paths between them. While it’s not an actual maze where you could get lost, the unique rock formations make for an interesting short stop while exploring the area.
Exploring ethnic life and natural scenery
The true highlight of Khau Vai is its people. The region is home to various ethnic minority groups, including the Hmong, Dao, and Tay, who have preserved their traditional way of life in this remote and rugged landscape. Villages here remain untouched by mass tourism, offering an authentic cultural experience. Expect to see traditional wooden houses, terraced fields, and local farmers tending to their land. The landscapes in Khau Vai are stunning, with rolling hills, rocky outcrops, and winding mountain roads that make every drive an adventure.
Where to stay in Khau Vai
Because Khau Vai is extremely remote, accommodation options are limited. If you want to visit the Love Market, which starts early in the morning and runs late into the night, you may want to stay nearby.
There are a few homestays in Khau Vai, some of which can be found on Google Maps, while others are only known locally. These homestays are very basic, offering a traditional ethnic experience, which might be fine for a single-night stay but may not suit those looking for comfort.
For more comfortable accommodation, Meo Vac is the best option. Located about 30 km from Khau Vai, Meo Vac offers a variety of homestays and small hotels. While there are still no luxury accommodations, you can find more comfortable stays here, with options like Dao Lodge, Meo Vac Clay House, or Auberge de Meo Vac providing a more pleasant overnight experience.
Travel tips for visiting Khau Vai Love Market
Plan your trip well
The Khau Vai Love Market only happens once a year, so double-check the dates before planning your trip. Since reaching Khau Vai requires significant travel time from Hanoi (and even from Ha Giang City), make sure to plan overnight stops along the way and incorporate other highlights of Ha Giang into your itinerary.
Respect local culture
Khau Vai is a very special event, bringing together diverse ethnic groups in a celebration of tradition and community. The people here live very different lives from most visitors, and many are shy around outsiders.
- Ask permission before taking photos of people.
- Be respectful of their customs and interactions, even if they seem unusual.
- Do not give money to children—this disrupts their traditional way of life and encourages begging.
Food options are limited
Apart from a few very basic local restaurants, there aren’t many food options in Khau Vai. If you prefer not to eat at local stalls or have dietary restrictions, it’s a good idea to bring snacks and water with you.
Come prepared – What to bring
Given Khau Vai’s remote location, make sure you are fully prepared before heading out:
- Download offline maps and translation apps – Mobile signal is weak or nonexistent in some areas.
- Bring enough cash – There are no ATMs nearby.
- Fill up your motorbike – Fuel stations are limited, and you don’t want to run out of gas.
- Pack essentials – Weather can be unpredictable, so bring warm layers, rain protection, and comfortable walking shoes.
Other unique markets in Ha Giang
While Khau Vai Love Market is the most unique ethnic market in Ha Giang, there are many other fascinating markets throughout the province. These weekly markets showcase colorful ethnic groups, bustling trade, and unique sights like buffalo sales, traditional medicine stalls, and even open-air barbershops.
For more information, check out our full guide to markets in Ha Giang.
