About Tham Ma Pass
Tham Ma Pass is an iconic S-shaped mountain pass in Ha Giang, part of the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark, and one of the most impressive mountain passes in Vietnam. Winding through rugged limestone peaks, this pass offers breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys and is a must-see stop along the Ha Giang Loop.
The pass stretches about 5 km at an altitude of 1,500 meters and features a sharp, zigzagging road that makes it a thrilling ride for motorcyclists. It is located 10 km from Yen Minh, between the villages of Lung Thau and Van Chai. Along the route, you’ll encounter towering cliffs, unique rock formations, and small ethnic villages where local Hmong communities have adapted to the rocky landscape. Despite the harsh terrain, they skillfully cultivate corn, beans, and other crops in small patches of soil and use the local stones to build houses and tools.
At the top of the pass, you’ll find a well-known viewpoint, offering the best vantage point to admire and photograph the winding S-shaped road below. This spot is popular with travelers, and you’ll often see Hmong children dressed in colorful outfits selling flowers or playing around the area.
In the past, Tham Ma Pass was used by locals to test the strength of their horses. Horses were loaded with goods and taken up the mountain—if they made it to the top looking strong, they were kept for further use. If not, they were used for Thang Co, a traditional Hmong dish made from horse meat and organs, commonly served at Ha Giang’s ethnic markets.
Today, you can also take a break at Coffee Tham Ma, a small roadside café located at the viewpoint. It’s a great place to enjoy a drink while admiring the scenery. Weekends can get busy with local tourists from Hanoi, but on weekdays, the pass remains a peaceful stop to soak in the beauty of Ha Giang before continuing your journey.
How do you get there?
Tham Ma Pass is not a standalone destination but an essential part of the Ha Giang Loop, a famous multi-day motorbike route through Ha Giang’s dramatic landscapes. The pass is located between Yen Minh and Dong Van, approximately 110 km from Ha Giang City, 10 km from Yen Minh, and 35 km from Dong Van.
To visit Tham Ma Pass, you first need to reach Ha Giang City, which is accessible from Hanoi by sleeper bus, limousine van, or private car. From Ha Giang City, travelers typically explore the loop using one of the following options:
- Motorbike: The most popular way to experience Tham Ma Pass, offering an adventurous ride with stunning panoramic views.
- Easy Rider: If you prefer not to drive yourself, you can ride on the back of a local guide’s motorbike for a safer but equally thrilling experience.
- Car or Jeep: A comfortable option, allowing you to enjoy the scenery without worrying about road conditions or riding skills.
Tham Ma Pass is one of the many highlights along the Ha Giang Loop, with several incredible stops nearby, including Lung Cu Flag Tower, Dong Van Old Quarter, and the stunning Ma Pi Leng Pass further north.
Staying at Tham Ma Pass
For those looking for a unique overnight experience, Tham Ma Retreat offers a stay high above the pass with spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. A small side road starting at Coffee Tham Ma winds up into the hills, leading to this newly built retreat, designed in the traditional style of ethnic minority homes.
The retreat provides comfortable rooms with stunning scenery, making it a memorable place to wake up in the mountains. However, it is not the most convenient place to stay overnight, as it is quite remote.
Pro tip: If you pass by Tham Ma Pass around lunchtime, consider heading up to the retreat for a meal instead. This way, you can enjoy the incredible views without the need to stay overnight.
Best time to travel
You can visit Tham Ma Pass all year round, however if you have the space, try to plan this pass when it is not raining or foggy. Because you are very high, it often happens that this mountain pass is completely covered in clouds, so you have no view. In the winter months from December to February it can be very cold. In the summer months you have more chance of rain. The best time to travel is often during the autumn and spring.
Other sights around the Tham Ma Pass
There is a lot more to see in this province, so make sure to plan 3 to 4 days to travel around. Before the pass you drive through Quan Ba, where you can see the Twin Mountains and visit a small cave high up in the mountains. After the Tham Ma Pass you head for Sung La valley, whith vast fields of flowers, before driving through Sa Phin, where you can visit the ancient HMong King Palace. Before heading to Dong Van you can take a detour to Lung Cu, over a very scenic road with some of the most impressive mountains of the region. At Lung Cu you can visit the Flag Tower, indicating the most northern point of Vietnam.
