About Binh Lieu
Binh Lieu is a mountainous district located in the northeastern part of Quang Ninh Province, the same province that is home to Halong Bay. Situated over 200 kilometers from Hanoi, this border region boasts dramatic mountain landscapes, charming villages, and a rich cultural heritage where ethnic minorities, such as the Dao and Tay people, continue to live traditional lifestyles untouched by mass tourism. Its most iconic feature is the Border Road, which winds through stunning peaks and is often referred to as the “Dinosaur Spine” of northern Vietnam.
Although Binh Lieu has gained some popularity among young Vietnamese adventurers due to social media, it remains virtually unknown to foreign travelers. Far off the beaten path, the district offers an authentic and serene experience with unique things to do in Binh Lieu, such as trekking, cultural exploration, and breathtaking mountain views.
Permit
As a border area between Vietnam and China, traveling in Binh Lieu requires a special permit. You can obtain this permit from the local police station in Binh Lieu town. While this process may require extra effort, it’s worth it to access the stunning border routes and explore the region fully.
Best time to visit Binh Lieu
Binh Lieu is located in northern Vietnam, sharing a similar climate with Hanoi and other nearby mountainous regions. The area experiences a humid subtropical climate, with distinct dry and rainy seasons, as well as colder winters.
The dry season, from October to April, offers the best time to visit, with the most pleasant weather in October and November when the region is in full bloom with white reed flowers (cỏ lau). This is also the ideal time for trekking the border roads and experiencing the breathtaking mountain scenery.
Seasonal highlights:
- September to early October: Rice harvest season transforms the terraced fields into vibrant golden hues.
- Summer (June to August): Warm temperatures make it the best time for swimming in the streams and waterfalls.
- December to January: The area can get quite cold, with temperatures dropping to around 10°C, so warm clothing is essential.
During the rainy season, from May to September, heavy rains can make trekking and traveling in the area more challenging, but the landscape is lush and green.
How to travel to Binh Lieu
Since Binh Lieu is far off the beaten path, there is little to no tourism infrastructure, and organized tours to this area are not yet available. Below are the public transportation options for reaching Binh Lieu, along with alternative ways to travel, such as motorbiking or hiring a car with a driver.
From Hanoi to Binh Lieu
Bus option
Hung Long bus company operates several daily buses between Hanoi (Gia Lam Bus Station) and Binh Lieu. The journey takes approximately 6 hours, with options for minibuses and standard buses, costing around $7 (approximately 180,000 VND).
Alternatively, you can take a bus to Halong City and rent a motorbike from there to continue your journey to Binh Lieu.
Private car with driver
Another option is to hire a private car with a driver. This not only provides convenient transportation to Binh Lieu but also gives you the flexibility to explore the region’s sights without needing additional local transport.
From Halong City to Binh Lieu
While Halong City doesn’t have an official bus station for the Binh Lieu route, buses traveling from Hanoi to Binh Lieu pass through Halong City. You can arrange with the bus company to pick you up along the route in Halong City.
Motorbike option
Renting a motorbike in Halong City and riding to Binh Lieu is another adventurous option. The ride offers scenic views along the way and the flexibility to stop and explore the countryside at your own pace.
How to get around
To explore the highlights of Binh Lieu, a motorbike is the most common and practical option. You can rent one from your accommodation for around 200,000 VND per day, giving you the freedom to visit the area’s scenic spots and navigate the narrow mountain roads at your own pace.
Alternatively, you can hire a private car with a driver, but it’s best to arrange this in advance, ideally from Hanoi, as it can be challenging to organize locally. Keep in mind that a driver is not a guide, and also might not be from the area, so you’ll need to communicate your destinations clearly. For a more seamless experience, consider hiring a local guide who is familiar with the area, can help you navigate permits, and provide valuable insights about Binh Lieu.
Travel tips
Get the permit
Before planning your trip, contact your accommodation or a local guide to assist with obtaining the necessary permit for traveling in Binh Lieu. The process isn’t straightforward for foreigners, so having local support can save you time and hassle.
Prepare for an off the beaten experience
Binh Lieu is undeveloped, with limited infrastructure and few English-speaking locals. Shops and amenities are sparse, and accommodations are mostly basic. While this adds to the sense of adventure, it’s not a destination for those seeking comfort. Make sure to download offline maps, as mobile service is unreliable in some areas.
How long to stay here?
Plan for at least two full days:
- Day 1: Explore the iconic Border Road, including hikes to the milestones.
- Day 2: Visit ethnic villages to experience their unique traditions and culture, a highlight as significant as the scenery.
For a deeper experience, add an extra day or two to venture further into remote areas.
What to bring
- Cash: Local restaurants and homestays typically don’t accept cards. While Binh Lieu town has a couple of ATMs, it’s safer to withdraw cash in Hanoi before your trip.
- Wind jacket: The mountain climate can get chilly, especially in winter and during spring or autumn evenings, particularly on motorbike rides.
- Walking shoes: You don’t need hiking boots, but comfortable walking shoes are essential for hiking to the milestones along the Border Road.
Where to go next
From Binh Lieu, you can head back to Hanoi via Halong or continue your journey through northern Vietnam. If you have your own transportation, you can explore remote roads leading to Lang Son or even further to Cao Bang, offering more breathtaking mountain scenery and cultural experiences.
Things to do in Binh Lieu
Binh Lieu is a hidden gem in northern Vietnam, offering unique experiences for adventurous travelers. This mountainous region near the Chinese border is famous for its breathtaking landscapes, ethnic minority villages, and off-the-beaten-path trekking opportunities. Whether you’re exploring the iconic Border Road, visiting local markets, or hiking to stunning waterfalls, there are plenty of things to do in Binh Lieu for those seeking a less-traveled destination.
1. The Scenic Border Road
The main draw of Binh Lieu is the scenic Border Road, a winding mountain road that runs along the Vietnam-China border. This route features some of the region’s most dramatic landscapes and offers several hiking opportunities marked by border milestones.
Milestone 1305 and the “Dinosaur Spine”
Milestone 1305 is one of the most famous stops along the Border Road and is located at one of the highest points in Quang Ninh. The hike to the milestone includes traversing the “Dinosaur Spine,” a narrow ridge with more than 2,000 steps and incredible views of the surrounding mountains. The trek takes approximately 2 hours in good weather.
Milestone 1297
Another noteworthy milestone, 1297, is surrounded by tall grasses, creating a scenic spot to explore, especially during the right season. While a stone path has been added here for easier access, it’s still worth a visit for its views and unique atmosphere.
2. Rice Fields
In September and October, Binh Lieu transforms into a stunning landscape of golden rice terraces during the harvest season. Some of the best spots to admire the terraced fields include:
- Huc Dong: The gateway to the Khe Van Waterfall, surrounded by picturesque fields.
- Khe O, Cao Thang, and Ngan Pat Villages: Located on the western slope of Mount Cao Xiem, about 3 km from Highway 18C.
- Ban Mo Mo and Khe Tien: Situated on the southern slope of the Phieng Te Mountains, 3 km from Dong Van commune.
- Ngan Can, Cao Son, and Hoanh Mo: Remote areas with off-road access, perfect for adventurous travelers.
3. Binh Lieu Market
The Binh Lieu market is a cultural hub where ethnic minorities such as the Tay, Dao, and San Chi gather to trade goods, socialize, and celebrate their traditions. The market is a vibrant display of local culture, with vendors and buyers dressed in colorful traditional attire. While markets now occur daily due to modern development, Sundays remain the most lively and colorful day to visit.
4. Song Mooc Village
Song Mooc Village is home to the Dao ethnic group, with a population of around 700 people living in traditional ways. The village is divided into two sections, Song Mo A and Mo Mo B, and features beautiful terraced fields and the serene Song Mo Waterfall.
Tip: While Song Mooc is an easy-to-find village, there are many other ethnic villages in Binh Lieu that are worth exploring for those looking to go deeper into local culture.
5. Hoanh Mo Border Gate
The Hoanh Mo Border Gate is a small trading post that marks the border between Vietnam and China. While not a typical tourist destination, the area has a unique “border vibe,” with views of infrastructure projects on the Chinese side, such as elevated expressways winding through the mountains.
Visitors passing along the scenic Border Road will naturally pass by this site, but keep in mind that further travel east from Hoanh Mo along the border is often restricted, as border police may require permits or turn travelers back. It’s best to use the back road south or the main road (QL18C) to return to Binh Lieu.
6. Luc Na Pagoda
Luc Na Pagoda was built to honor General Hoang Can, a national hero who played a significant role in resisting northern invaders. The pagoda holds historical significance and is a spiritual site for the local community.
Every year, the Dinh Luc Na Festival is held on the 16th day of the Lunar New Year, drawing visitors to witness traditional ceremonies and pay respects.
7. Khe Van Waterfall
The Khe Van Waterfall is one of the most beautiful natural attractions in Binh Lieu. The waterfall originates from the Khe Van-Thong Chau mountain range and cascades over three levels, with a total height of approximately 100 meters. The first level features a large stream that forms a serene pool, while the second and third levels create dramatic smaller waterfalls surrounded by moss-covered cliffs and dense forest.
Travel tips:
- Best visited during the rainy season for the fullest water flow, but it remains a serene spot year-round.
- The road to the waterfall is scenic and accessible by both motorbike and car.
- Parking costs 10,000 VND, and there’s no entrance fee.
8. Khe Tien Waterfall
Hidden in the protective forest of Dong Van Commune, the Khe Tien Waterfall feels wild and untouched, offering a more remote and adventurous experience compared to other sites in Binh Lieu.
The road to the waterfall is winding and passes through beautiful terraced rice fields, making the journey as rewarding as the destination. While it can be reached by motorbike or car, the trip requires careful navigation due to the narrow and steep paths.
9. Cao Xiem Mountain
Standing at 1,429 meters above sea level, Cao Xiem Mountain is the highest peak in Quang Ninh Province and is often referred to as its “roof.” Conquering this mountain is a challenging yet rewarding adventure, involving a 15-kilometer trek through rugged terrain. The route is not well-marked, so it’s recommended to hire a local guide to avoid getting lost.
Due to the high altitude, the summit is often shrouded in clouds, limiting visibility. However, on clear days, the panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes are breathtaking. Bring plenty of water and be prepared for a strenuous hike.
10. Ba Lanh Mountain
Known locally as the “Magic Mountain,” Ba Lanh Mountain is surrounded by legends. Locals believe that striking certain rocks on the mountain produces sounds that communicate with the gods. The area features pristine air, two small lakes, and an array of unique rock formations.
While the scenery is impressive, reaching Ba Lanh can be difficult due to poor road conditions. Visitors often need to hike part of the way, making it an adventurous destination for those seeking to explore Binh Lieu’s less-visited areas.
Where to stay in Binh Lieu
Since Binh Lieu is far off the beaten path, don’t expect luxurious accommodations or English-speaking staff. However, this simplicity adds to the charm of the region, offering an authentic and unique experience. Staying in a homestay with ethnic minorities is highly recommended for travelers seeking a deeper cultural connection. While basic, these accommodations provide an unparalleled opportunity to understand the lives of people living along the border.
- Homestay A Piu (Binh Lieu): A cozy option with friendly hosts and basic amenities, located conveniently in the town.
- Chief Ngo Homestay (Binh Lieu): Known for its warm hospitality and traditional style, perfect for immersing yourself in the local culture.
- Homestay Hoang Sam (Binh Lieu): A popular choice among Vietnamese travelers, offering simple yet comfortable accommodations.
- Green Living Homestay (Khe Tien Village): Located in the scenic Khe Tien area, this homestay offers proximity to the Khe Tien Waterfall and stunning rice terraces.
- Homestay A Dao (Kham Chi Village): Experience the daily life of ethnic minorities in this traditional homestay, surrounded by beautiful natural landscapes.
